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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.